Friday, March 27, 2015

Biodiversity and national parks: What’s relevance got to do with it?

One needs only see the light of dis
covery in a child’s eyes at a park bioblitz
to become a believer in the value of living
nature. Such transformative experiences of discovery can be tightly coupled with
the diversity of life that has been entrusted
to the National Park Service.


We suggest that public education and
involvement in biodiversity discovery at
our national parks are vital to conserving
our national biodiversity for the future.
Biodiversity discovery in national parks, for
example via a public bioblitz, has proven to
generate transformative visitor experiences
that both educate and inspire through
direct public involvement in the discov
ery of living organisms in the parks, of
which it is estimated that 80–90% remain
unknown.



Because biodiversity discovery
activities often require only excited minds
and willing hands, they appeal to children
and nonscientists as much as they do to
experts in the subject matter.



http://www.nature.nps.gov/ParkScience/Archive/PDF/Article_PDFs/ParkScience31(1)SpecialIssue2014_14-16_Plumb_et_al_3776.pdf



Also see:

http://www.nature.nps.gov/ParkScience/Archive/PDF/Article_PDFs/ParkScience31(1)SpecialIssue2014_50-57_Interviews_3790.pdf



Thursday, March 12, 2015

Eastern Gartersnake

Eastern Gartersnake: REPRODUCTION: This snake will mate on the 1st warm day after their emergence in spring. The young are born alive in late July or early August *1008,1101*. They have 7-101 young/litter *1104*, which are 5-9 inches long at birth *882*. A single female may be courted by many males at the same time, forming a "mating ball". The estimated age at maturity for females in Kansas is 2 years. Mitchell reports litter size to be between 9-57 (avg. = 26.2 /-16.8, n=22).*10760*

BEHAVIOR: This species is diurnal, becoming nocturnal in hot weather *2065*. It hibernates in November *2068,1008*, through March *2068*, in rocky outcrops with deep crevices or rotting stumps *2068*. The activity range is 2-3 acres, estimated. 482 garter snakes are estimated to inhabit a 48-acre study area *2070*. This species has a preference for damp habitat *2064,1008,883*, although it occurs in a wide variety of habitats *883,2064,1013* including the edges of waterways *882,1101*, meadows, marshes, woodlands, hillsides *882*, weedy or brushy areas and old fields *1013*. They are also in waste places in cities *1013*, and in city lots and dumps where there is moisture, or at least dampness *882*. A Kansas population experienced 36% first-year survival rate, a 50% adult annual survival rate, and an estimated natural longevity of 8 years.*10760* Thamnophis sirtalis will often flatten its head and anterior body and strike if molested. Juveniles especially will perform this behavior and will strike so forcefully that they may completely leave the ground. Adults will also spray musk from glands located at the base of the tail, and sometimes emit feces in attempts to discourage predators.*10760* Thorp has found this species in its natural habitats as well as on roads and under coverboards *11523*.

Kentucky Department of Fish & Wildlife Amphibia

Kentucky Department of Fish & Wildlife Amphibia: AMPHIBIAN CWCS SPECIES (25 SPECIES)
Common Name Scientific name
Allegheny Mountain Dusky Salamander Desmognathus ochrophaeus
Barking Treefrog Hyla gratiosa
Bird-voiced Treefrog Hyla avivoca
Black Mountain Salamander Desmognathus welteri
Cumberland Plateau Salamander Plethodon kentucki
Eastern Hellbender Cryptobranchus alleganiensis alleganiensis
Eastern Spadefoot Scaphiopus holbrookii
Four-toed Salamander Hemidactylium scutatum
Gray Treefrog Hyla versicolor
Green Salamander Aneides aeneus
Green Treefrog Hyla cinerea


Mole Salamander Ambystoma talpoideum
Northern Crawfish Frog Rana areolata circulosa
Northern Dusky Salamander Desmognathus fuscus
Northern Leopard Frog Rana pipiens
Redback Salamander Plethodon cinereus
Southern Leopard Frog Rana sphenocephala
Southern Zigzag Salamander Plethodon ventralis
Spotted Dusky Salamander Desmognathus conanti
Streamside Salamander Ambystoma barbouri
Three-lined Salamander Eurycea guttolineata
Three-toed Amphiuma Amphiuma tridactylum
Wehrle's Salamander Plethodon wehrlei
Western Lesser Siren Siren intermedia nettingi
Wood Frog Rana sylvatica

Southern Zigzag Salamander

Southern Zigzag Salamander: REPRODUCTION: Females deposit eggs shortly after moving to underground retreats in late spring or early summer. Eggs are attached within cave formations by sticky membranes. Incubation is about 3 months. Average clutch size is approximately 5 ova.*11305* Habitat: Talus slopes are very important to this species as well as rock crevices that provide access to deep underground passages. This may be important for overwintering.*11305*

Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency - Salamanders of TN

Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency - Salamanders of TN: The northern zigzag salamander (Plethodon dorsalis, Family: Plethodontidae - pictured) is one of our most abundant species and is found throughout the eastern two-thirds of the state. The similar looking, closely related southern zigzag salamander (Plethodon ventralis, Family: Plethodontidae - not pictured) has a very small range along the eastern border of Tennessee. But as these two were just recently separated into two species, more research needs to be conducted to determine the true range of the southern zigzag salamander. Both of these salamanders are relatively small (6 – 11 cm) and exist in two color morphs (phases). They may be a uniform brownish-gray color (lead morph) or a dark base color with an orange or red zigzag pattern (striped morph) extending down the back that straightens out when it reaches the base of the tail. Both color morphs may have light metallic flecks on the back and sides; the belly is mottled with tiny black, white and orange speckles. These salamanders prefer moist forested slopes, caves and rocky hillsides. Females use underground retreats in which to lay and brood their eggs.

Southern Zigzag Salamander | Outdoor Alabama

Southern Zigzag Salamander | Outdoor Alabama:



HABITAT: They prefer upland rocky woodlands dominated by hardwoods, most often encountered under rotten logs and rocks. They are also quite common near springs and mouths of caves.




FEEDING HABITS: Zigzag salamanders forage along the forest floor in search of small insects.

AmphibiaWeb - Plethodon ventralis

AmphibiaWeb - Plethodon ventralis: 1. Historical versus Current Distribution. Southern zigzag salamanders (Plethodon ventralis) occur in scattered sites from northern Mississippi east-northeast to southeastern Virginia, including sites in northern Alabama and Georgia, eastern Tennessee, and western North Carolina. With the exception of local extirpations due to habitat destruction and modification, their current distribution is likely similar to their historical distribution, but there has been no documentation of their historical distribution.

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Canadian Wildlife Federation: Snake den

Canadian Wildlife Federation: Snake den:



  • Dig a hole 2 metres deep and 1.5 metres square in a warm, sunny clearing next to a woodlot. It's important that water does not accumulate at the bottom of the pit. Otherwise, it will likely freeze and kill the animals.
  • Loosely fill the pit with logs and stumps, brush, and boards, mixed with leaves and soil. Or, to accommodate snakes that prefer to hibernate in rock mounds and cavities, fill with large odd-shaped rocks. There should be plenty of cavities left for the snakes to move around.
  • Cover the pit with a one-metre-high mound of brush, leaves, and soil for further insulation and protection from predators 

Canadian Wildlife Federation: All About Amphibians and Reptiles

Canadian Wildlife Federation: All About Amphibians and Reptiles:



A wet ‘n’ wild welcome

To attract amphibians and reptiles to your backyard consider the following tips:
  • Amphibians require moisture, so building a pond is the best way to invite them to make your backyard home.
  • Ensure that your pond does not have steep edges so amphibians and reptiles can get out, or provide logs to allow them to do so.
  • Remember that some frogs overwinter under water and so require a permanent pond with a depth of at least 2 metres.
  • Toads overwinter on land and only require shallow, temporary ponds (or the shallow areas of larger ponds) for breeding.
  • Plant some emergent vegetation, native to your area, around the edges of your pond to provide cover for frogs and toads. Check out local wetlands for ideas on what types of vegetation you should plant.
  • If you live on a shoreline, remember that aquatic and shoreline plants are important to reptiles and amphibians for nesting, food, and shelter. Plants also support the insects that are important in their diet. Logs, rocks, and other natural shoreline features are used for shelter and nesting and as basking sites. So maintain or restore natural shoreline areas.
  • Reptiles like a warm, sunny environment, with lots of places to hide. Provide some rock piles and logs around the pond and garden to offer these creatures shelter and protection from predators. Put some of the rock piles in sunny areas to provide a place for basking in the sun.
  • Allow some areas of your garden to go a bit wild, providing damp and shady areas for reptiles to cool off in the hot summer months.
  • Create a toad abode to shelter toads and place it in a cool, shady part of your garden.
  • Build a snake den for hibernating snakes so they can overwinter in comfort.
  • Snakes often return to the same hibernation site year after year. Protect existing hibernation sites. Rocky outcrops, talus slopes, or rock crevices that allow snakes access to shelter below the frost line are all great sites.
  • Do not purchase or move frogs or toads to your backyard, as they will often die. When you have provided all that a frog or toad could want, be patient and they will come to you.
  • Dense foliage close to the ground provides cover for amphibians and reptiles.
  • Piles of leaves provide winter cover for some frogs and salamanders.
  • Prevent the death of amphibians and reptiles in window wells by placing a log that allows them escape.
  • Avoid the use of pesticides. 

Canadian Wildlife Federation: Build a Brush Pile for Wildlife

Canadian Wildlife Federation: Build a Brush Pile for Wildlife:

Some additional planning will make your brush pile the hottest hangout in the neighbourhood:




• Ensure a section of your brush pile gets direct sunlight and you will attract animals that like to bask.
• Add stone piles along the edges of the brush pile to act as basking sites. 
• Encourage fruiting vines and flowering plants to sprawl through your brush pile to add density and stability and attract pollinators and songbirds.
• Keep it away from snags (standing dead trees), where raptors often scan for ground prey and launch their attacks. 
• Cover the top with evergreen branches from your Christmas tree to provide a snow and ice barrier. 
• Add new brush to the top every few years to replace settled and decayed material.
• Place it well away from your house to discourage wild tenants from moving in.

Canadian Wildlife Federation: Build a Brush Pile for Wildlife

Canadian Wildlife Federation: Build a Brush Pile for Wildlife: Position your brush pile within or near woods or in “edge” habitats — that is, between two different habitats, such as the edge between a forest and a clearing or field, between a stream and marsh, near land that’s being cleared or partially underwater along the edge of a pond.

Some additional planning will make your brush pile the hottest hangout in the neighbourhood:

• Ensure a section of your brush pile gets direct sunlight and you will attract animals that like to bask.
• Add stone piles along the edges of the brush pile to act as basking sites.
• Encourage fruiting vines and flowering plants to sprawl through your brush pile to add density and stability and attract pollinators and songbirds.
• Keep it away from snags (standing dead trees), where raptors often scan for ground prey and launch their attacks.
• Cover the top with evergreen branches from your Christmas tree to provide a snow and ice barrier.
• Add new brush to the top every few years to replace settled and decayed material.
• Place it well away from your house to discourage wild tenants from moving in.

Decay Resistance

Decay Resistance:



Highly Resistant



Black locust



Osage-orange

Red mulberry

Yews




Sunday, March 8, 2015

Brush Piles for Birds

Brush Piles for Birds:



Community acceptance

If you live in town it's wise to consult your municipal regulations before creating a brush pile in the back yard. Some cities have rules about where you can put a brush pile or how big it can be, or they may even forbid it entirely.



Other communities don't object unless they receive complaints. It may be politic to put your brush pile where it won't offend your neighbor's view.



 But there's no reason to make a brush pile unsightly! Plant morning glories, clematis, or other blooming vines by its side. They'll clamber over it, drape it, and turn it into a hill of flowers. The wild birds who use it will be ambassadors for natural habitat in your neighborhood.
http://www.in.gov/dnr/fishwild/files/Wildlife_Brushpile_Jobsheet.pdf



WHAT IS A BRUSH PILE?
The term “brush pile” describes a mound or heap of woody
vegetative material constructed to furnish additional
wildlife cover. Brush piles can be fashioned in many
different ways to meet various cover needs for particular
wildlife species.



OTHER CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS
A simple pile of logs, wood slabs, large rocks or boulders
can be very attractive to amphibians, reptiles and small
mammals, especially when located near or within woodland
habitats. Piles of rotting logs or wood slabs not only
provide shelter, produce an abundance of food items, but
also maintain the moist conditions required by woodland
amphibians.



Rock Piles
Amphibians and reptiles such as frogs, lizards, salamanders
and snakes will benefit from rock piles. Besides providing
shelter and basking areas, the rocks absorb heat during the
day and radiate warmth at night.



Rock piles should start with the largest rocks (or boulders)
on the bottom of the stack to create hiding places between
rocks. Broken slabs of concrete can also be used for the
foundation by arranging them loosely to form tunnels and
cavities. Digging depressions under large flat rocks can
create temporary pools for breeding frogs and salamanders
(see Figure 4).
General Recommendations
Build a mound of rocks and stones of different shapes
and sizes, arranging the rock pile in a way that creates
openings for shelter.
Place pieces of chimney tile, old clay field tile or
lengths of pipe at the base for entrances and tunnels.
Add flat rocks on top for amphibians and reptiles

LANDSCAPING FOR WILDLIFE: CREATING BACKYARD HABITAT

http://www.conservewildlifenj.org/downloads/cwnj_61.pdf



Location is critical: Brush piles should be near food resources. Place near forest edges and clearings,
along roadsides or near wetlands and streams. Secluded piles are not as beneficial to wildlife. Several
medium-sized piles (6ft. high x 10ft. wide) are better than one huge one. Space piles out for maximum
effects. Allow native vines or other wildflowers/annuals to grow where pile meets the ground. This will
provide additional cover to wildlife.



Do not place brush pile near your house. It is better to place where there will
be minimal disturbance from people.



HOW TO CREATE A BRUSH PILE: 



1. To create a “log-based” brush pile, first you construct the base, using eight 6ft. long logs that are about
4-6” in diameter. Place the first four on the ground parallel to each other around -12” apart. Then place the
other four perpendicular to the bottom four. This makes it easier for wildlife to be able to access the base
of the brush pile and evade predators.



2. Stack brush on top of the logs. Place larger brush on the bottom and lighter brush on top. Your pile
should be at least 4ft. in height and 10ft. in diameter. The higher the pile the longer it will last.

Habitat How-To's: Brush Piles & Rock Piles

http://fw.ky.gov/Wildlife/Documents/brushpiles[1].pdf



Figure 4. Exits and hollows should be constructed
with the base layer of stone abd covered with two to
three layers to be effective.



3. In-ground dens
Though not really considered a brush pile, inground
den structures may be built by burying wooden
boxes, concrete or plastic septic field distribution boxes
or even 5-gallon buckets and providing at least two 4 or 5
inch drain pipe exits. Do not construct these in wet soils,
low-lying areas, or areas prone to flooding.
Build this type:
- in fields being maintained by prescribed burning.
- where the appearance of an above-ground
structure is undesired.
- where long-lasting structures are desired]



How big should a brush pile be?
A good rule is that if the brush pile does
not provide shade, protection from rain or snow or if you
can easily see or reach the animal you are trying to protect,
then the brush pile is too small. Brush piles made of tree
limbs should generally be 15 to 20 feet in diameter and
3 to 5 feet high. If made of more durable and protective
material such as stones, the structure may be as small as 4
or 5 feet in diameter.

A word on rock piles

http://dnr.wi.gov/files/PDF/pubs/wm/WM0221.pdf



Rock piles and walls provide special habitats
for wildlife. Chipmunks, skunks and other
small rodents and snakes are partial to these
hard, sun-warmed quarters. A wide variety of
ants and other invertebrates live beneath
rocks which are in direct contact with the
earth. Ant colonies can also thrive in them
and provide food for a host of birds,
mammals, reptiles and amphibians.
If you are interested in providing habitat for
this kind of wildlife, then you may want to
place PVC pipes or drain tiles within the
rocks. Pipes and tiles create very effective
escape tunnels and den sites for rock pileloving
wildlife. Or, just leave them alone. But
if grassland birds and prairie restoration is
your goal, bury them. That’s because some
rock-pile-loving wildlife, such as skunks and
raccoons, prey on grassland bird eggs and
will defeat your efforts.

Build a Brush Pile for Wildlife Habitat

http://www.knox-lincoln.org/storage/publications/farm-and-field/Brush%20piles.pdf



Base materials
Effective brush piles are built on a base of
coarse materials so openings are available at
ground level for wildlife movement.
A few piles of large rocks at least 12 inches
wide and 2 feet tall, and several crisscrossed
logs at least 6 feet long and 6 inches in
diameter make good brush pile bases. Stumps
can also make good bases.
http://www.forestry.state.al.us/Publications/TREASURED_Forest_Magazine/2006%20Fall/Wildlife%20Hotel%20-%20The%20Art%20of%20Building%20a-Functional%20Brush%20Pile.pdf

A well constructed brush pile will
accommodate a variety of wildlife and
starts with (as most all building projects)
a firm foundation. The basic brush pile
has a foundation formed by building a
base of larger decay-resistant material
that will support the weight of the pile.
Large logs, field rocks, cement blocks

old pipe or tires can be used for this. The
base materials should be about 6 inches
in diameter and placed about 10 to 12
inches away from each other, wide
enough apart to provide easy access
within the interior of the pile.

Building the Ultimate Brush Pile: 4 Easy Steps to a Super Brush Pile for Birds

Building the Ultimate Brush Pile: 4 Easy Steps to a Super Brush Pile for Birds:



Let's Build a Brush Pile!

1. Start with a layer of grass clippings, pine needles, and or dried leaves.
If they are just thrown on top, they will clog all the entrances that the birds need to dive into your pile. Also, they will eventually compost and decay, rendering them unusable. The birds will find them easily enough under the brush pile. They will use their beaks and feet to uncover any juicy little critters hiding under them as well.
A large tree branch came down in a late spring snowstorm.  I used that for my base framework.
A large tree branch came down in a late spring snowstorm. I used that for my base framework.
Source: Grandma Pearl
2. Next, use the larger branches to make a base framework layer. Be sure to leave plenty of space between these ‘logs’. There should be another layer of branches laid across the top of the base, placed in the opposite direction. This framework makes for a very sturdy and stable pile on which to add more branches.
By the way, the branches for the framework don't have to be as large as these are. Sometimes I just use saplings, making sure that they are criss-crossed for the most stability and entrance holes.
Interweave the branches at the base for a more stable pile.  This method also leaves lots of room for birds to enter and explore.
Interweave the branches at the base for a more stable pile. This method also leaves lots of room for birds to enter and explore.
Source: Grandma Pearl
3. From there you can build up your pile with tree prunings, fallen branches, shrub cuttings, etc. Don’t worry about being neat. If you have to tuck the pieces in here and there so they won’t slide off, that’s just fine. By all means do not stomp on your brush pile to make it smaller. That would defeat the purpose entirely. In this case looser is better. Birds need all the various nooks and crannies to enter into their ‘grocery store’ of goodies, as well as to escape and hide from predators.
A work in progress. I will add a layer of pine branches later on for winter protection and water proofing.
Source: Grandma Pearl
4. Remember to keep adding to your pile from time to time. Otherwise, it will flatten and be reclaimed by nature. Enlist your kids or grand kids in this process. Children need to learn about nature firsthand. Knowing they are helping the little birds they see around your yard might open up a whole new world to them.
You can expect to see a wide variety of birds accessing your pile, especially in the spring when they need home building and improvement products, as well as baby bird food! Young birds are fed lots of protein by their parents in the form of insects, larvae and other small critters.

ACES Publications : Building Shelter For Wildlife : ANR-0785

ACES Publications : Building Shelter For Wildlife : ANR-0785:

Building A Brush Pile

Perhaps the easiest wildlife shelter to build is a brush pile. Research has shown that brush piles work best if they are properly constructed. Build brush piles in two parts. The first part is a foundation, which allows easy access for animals to enter the shelter. The second part is the brush, which covers the foundation. Brush piles should be 6 to 10 feet across and 2 to 4 feet high.


Where To Put Brush Piles

It is best to place brush piles near wildlife feeding areas. Along backyard or field edges and scattered around large wooded or open areas are good places. Try to make at least two piles per acre. Several medium-size piles scattered around are better than one big one. Try to keep brush piles away from living areas or children's play areas since snakes may frequent them.
So the next time you have some tree limbs or brush that you collect around the yard, don't send it to the landfill -- try building a brushpile for wildlife. Besides decreasing the amount of trash sent to landfills, you will be rewarded by attracting more wildlife to your yard.


Where To Put Brush Piles

It is best to place brush piles near wildlife feeding areas. Along backyard or field edges and scattered around large wooded or open areas are good places. Try to make at least two piles per acre. Several medium-size piles scattered around are better than one big one. Try to keep brush piles away from living areas or children's play areas since snakes may frequent them.

So the next time you have some tree limbs or brush that you collect around the yard, don't send it to the landfill -- try building a brushpile for wildlife. Besides decreasing the amount of trash sent to landfills, you will be rewarded by attracting more wildlife to your yard.

February 2007 Fish and Wildlife Habitat Management Leaflet Number 35 Amphibians and Reptiles © 1988 WHC WILDLIFE HABITAT COUNCILSM

http://directives.sc.egov.usda.gov/OpenNonWebContent.aspx?content=18528.wba

Introduction
Approximately 460 species of amphibians and reptiles
are known to occur in the continental United States.
Amphibians and reptiles are vertebrates, along with
fish, birds, and mammals. Worldwide, there are approximately
4,600 known amphibian species, similar
to the number of known mammal species (approximately
4,000). There are about 6,000 known reptile
species worldwide. The term herps refers to amphibians
and reptiles as a group. Most herps lay eggs; although,
some give birth to live young. The body temperatures
of nearly all amphibians and reptiles are
primarily determined by external sources of heat such
as the sun, water, or ground. This limits their distribution
and activity time, but allows them to live on
about one-tenth of the energy that similar-sized mammals
and birds require. Herps control their body temperatures
by moving to cooler or warmer areas as
necessary.
Reptiles have dry skin and scales, shields, or plates to
help keep their skin from losing moisture. Most reptiles
with feet have claws on their toes. Reptiles lay
shelled eggs or bear live young. Young reptiles have
the same body forms as their parents, though they
may differ in color or pattern. Reptiles living in North
America include turtles and tortoises, crocodiles and
alligators, lizards, and snakes.
Many amphibians have moist skin that lacks scales,
feathers, or hair. Most adult amphibians have lungs,
but respiration also occurs through the skin—a process
that can only occur if the skin is moist. Unlike
reptiles, amphibians’ toes are usually clawless, and
their eggs lack shells and are laid in water or a moist
environment to protect them from drying out. In general,
amphibian eggs hatch into aquatic larvae (or tadpoles)
that eventually metamorphose into the adult
form that is more terrestrial. Common amphibians of
North America include salamanders, frogs, and toads.
This leaflet was created to provide landowners with
information about amphibians and reptiles. By reading
this leaflet, landowners will recognize the ecological
value of herps, learn about threats to these animals,
and gain insight on what they can do to help.
The leaflet presents the habitat requirements of amphibians
and reptiles and offers suggestions for increasing
habitat quality and availability.
Ecological significance
Amphibians and reptiles play a major role in ecological
food webs, as both predators and prey. As consumers
of insects, rodents, and other pest species,
herps also provide a significant benefit to agriculture
and recreational activities. When abundant, amphibians
can consume substantial quantities of favored
prey organisms, perhaps serving to limit prey populations.
For example, salamanders appear to play important
roles in organizing many terrestrial and aquatic
communities. The larvae of mole salamanders are
top predators in vernal pond communities and influence
the abundance and diversity of aquatic invertebrates
and other amphibians therein. By serving as
prey, herps provide food for small mammals, birds,
and other herps.
Amphibians and reptiles are particularly sensitive
to habitat disturbance. Because of their close contact
with air, water, and soil, amphibians are considered
to be good indicators of environmental health.
Amphibians have highly permeable skin that rapidU.S.
Fish and Wildlife Service
Tiger salamander (Ambystoma tigrinum)
Amphibians and Reptiles

ly absorbs toxic substances in the air, water, and soil.
Amphibians have complex life cycles and need appropriate
habitat for egg, larval, and adult stages. For
many amphibian and reptile species, seasonal movements
within the landscape are necessary, meaning
that a variety of quality seasonal and transitional
habitats must be available for any given species.
Furthermore, many amphibians and reptiles have
poor dispersal abilities and are often unable to move
to alternate areas when their habitat is disturbed.
Habitat requirements
Amphibians and reptiles can be found in almost all
habitat types, from forests to deserts to grasslands.
Many species use different habitats during different
times of the year. For example, many salamanders
spend most of the year dispersed in the forest,
but they need appropriate wetlands within which to
breed. Some turtles live in water but must travel onto
land to lay their eggs. Many herps hibernate or become
less active during the winter. Hibernation occurs
in hibernacula, which are usually dark, secure,
secluded areas such as rocky outcroppings, crayfish
burrows, mammal burrows, or mud at the bottom of
ponds or wetlands.
Because of their unique life cycles, amphibians often
require both aquatic and terrestrial habitats.
Depending on the species and geographical area, they
may require damp areas (creeks, streams, swamps,
mud puddles, ponds, etc.), moist soil, and/or places to
burrow in order to keep their skin moist. Amphibians
generally breed and lay eggs in wetlands and other
aquatic habitats, some of which exist for only short
periods during the year (after rains or snowmelt),
and then move to terrestrial areas to over winter.
Amphibians use a wide range of terrestrial habitats
adjacent to wetlands and streams, typically consisting
of leaf litter, coarse woody material, boulders, small
mammal burrows, crack in rocks, spring seeps, rocky
pools, and even deserts and desert grasslands.
Some reptiles have very general habitat requirements,
while others have specific ones. Reptiles can live in
terrestrial, aquatic, or riparian habitats. Those that
inhabit riparian habitats are not considered aquatic,
but they are strongly associated with riparian-upland
transitional zones. Some reptiles live and forage
in aquatic habitats most of the year but move to
upland habitats to nest or overwinter. Within grasslands,
woodlands, and wetlands, reptiles require habitats
that provide thermal gradients ranging from cool
shelters to warm basking areas that receive exposure
to full sun. Reptiles also require suitable hibernation
and aestivation habitats to which they can escape during
times of environmental extremes. Thermal, hibernation,
and aestivation habitats may be present in the
form of large woody material, brush piles, rock piles
or outcroppings, animal burrows, or huts. These same
habitats provide nesting habitat for many snakes and
lizards, while nesting habitat for turtles may be found
within areas of loose or sandy soil exposed to full sun
and protected from flooding.
Amphibians and reptiles are a diverse group and their
habitat requirements vary greatly from species to
species. Specific habitat requirements for individual
species are beyond the scope of this leaflet. Table
1 contains general shelter, feeding, and nesting cover
requirements for the major groups of amphibians and
reptiles.
Threats to populations
Some amphibian and reptile populations are on
the decline. For example, populations of western
toads have declined or disappeared from the Rocky
Mountains, Sierra Nevada Mountains, and Cascade
Mountains. Populations of red-legged frogs have
disappeared from parts of California and Oregon.
Populations of Blanchard’s cricket frogs have declined
or disappeared from the Midwest. In addition
to the declines, frogs with multiple, missing, or malformed
legs have been sighted in high numbers in
Canada and the United States. These declines and deformities
are happening around the world. Some of
the documented causes of amphibian and reptile population
declines and deformities are habitat loss and
fragmentation, the alteration of natural disturbance
regimes, predation by and competition with nonnative
and invasive species, disease, environmental pollution,
severe weather, and UV radiation.
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
Red-legged frog (Rana aurora)
Amphibians and Reptiles

Table 1 General habitat requirements of North American reptiles and amphibians
Group Foraging habitat Food Breeding habitat
Reptiles
Crocodiles and
alligators
In and around water (lakes,
ponds, swamps, rivers)
Insects, snails, crustaceans, reptiles, frogs,
fish, birds, mammals
Inground or in heaped
vegetation and soil
Lizards In cracks and crevices, in rock or
brush piles, in tree trunks or foliage,
under rocks and logs, among
leaf litter or vegetation, underground
Leaves, fruit, flowers, insects, snails, scorpions,
crabs, other invertebrates, eggs, small
mice, lizards
In soil, under fallen
leaves, in crevices, in
rotting logs
Snakes On the ground, in crevices or burrows,
in rock or brush piles, in
trees, in water
Insects, spiders, snails, slugs, crayfish, crabs,
fish, salamanders, frogs, lizards, turtles,
birds, eggs, small mammals
Upland, riparian, or
wetland areas, burrows,
rotting logs
Turtles and
tortoises
In salt or fresh water, on land
(forests, deserts, grasslands)
Aquatic plants, grasses, berries, fruit, flowers,
leaves, insects, worms, slugs, snails,
crustaceans, other invertebrates, frogs,
snakes, turtles, fish, jellyfish
Well-drained sandy or
loose soil; sometimes
associated with burrows
Amphibians
Frogs and
toads
Under logs, in leaf litter, in damp
rock crevices, in soft soil or mud,
in shrubs and trees, in water, beneath
the soil surface
Tadpoles – algae, plant detritus, leaves, other
tadpoles
Fresh water or moist
areas
Adults – Insects, worms, other invertebrates,
frogs, snakes, lizards, small turtles, small
birds, mammals
Salamanders Cool, damp, shady places, in
caves or burrows, in trees, under
rocks and logs, on ground, in water;
underground
Larvae – insects and other invertebrates,
small crustaceans, tadpoles, zooplankton,
other salamander larvae
Fresh water or moist
areas
Adults – insects, worms, and other invertebrates,
fish, other salamanders, small mice
Amphibians and Reptiles
Habitat loss and fragmentation is a major factor in
the decline of amphibian and reptile species. Many
habitats are disappearing due to human population
growth and development. Of those habitats that do
remain, many are not large enough to support populations
of a given species. If required habitat components
are isolated from each other by agricultural
fields, roadways, or urban development, the animals
may not be able to reach them. Roads pose barriers
that are of particular concern to amphibian and reptile
movements. Often herps are not physically able to
cross roadways, and those that are run the risk of being
killed by vehicles.
The alteration of natural disturbance regimes, such as
fire and flood regimes, can be detrimental to amphibian
and reptile populations. In many ecosystems, these
disturbances help to maintain various stages of vegetative
succession, providing amphibians and reptiles
with their diverse habitat needs. Humans have altered
natural disturbance regimes by suppressing fire, controlling
flood levels, and other means. In the absence
of fire, flooding, or other natural disturbances, natural
habitats become degraded and are less capable of
supporting amphibian and reptile populations.
The introduction of nonnative species is another major
cause of amphibian and reptile decline. Native
species have not evolved with these new predators
or competitors and are often unable to survive in areas
where nonnative species are introduced. For example,
bullfrogs were introduced west of the Rocky
Mountains in the 1800s for human consumption.
These bullfrogs are efficient predators of local amphibians
and some reptiles. Populations of yellowlegged
frogs and other frogs are declining in areas
where bullfrogs are now abundant. Fire ants, introduced
to the southern United States around 1918,
prey on both the eggs and young of reptiles. Fire ants
are considered to be the primary cause of the extirpation
of the Texas horned lizard from parts of its historic
range. In the Southwest, nonnative crayfish have
been implicated in the decline of some amphibian and
aquatic reptile species.
Some amphibian deformities and population declines
can be attributed to diseases caused by viruses, bacterium,
fungi, or parasites. A parasitic fungus has been
identified as the cause of mass mortality in frogs in
the Americas, Australia, and other areas; this fungus
is now thought to be one of the primary suspects responsible
for amphibian declines around the world.
An upper respiratory tract disease is the potential
cause of population declines in desert tortoises in the
southwestern United States and gopher tortoises in
the southeastern United States. Often, nonnative species
will act as vectors for these diseases. For example,
the water fungus Saprolegnia, common in fish
hatcheries, has recently been associated with declines
of amphibian populations.
Amphibian and reptile populations are negatively affected
by environmental pollutants such as heavy
metals, pesticides, and radioactive waste. These pollutants
are suspected of causing deformities and abnormalities
in frogs. Acid rain raises the acidity of water
above the tolerance levels of many amphibian eggs
and tadpoles. This reduces fertilization and can cause
developmental abnormalities. Even though they have
been banned in the United States since 1979, traces
of polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB)—toxic, persistence
pollutants—can be found in air, soil, water,
and animal tissues. Some PCB compounds are similar
to estrogen and can alter the sexual development
of amphibian and reptile embryos. For example, sex
reversal and abnormal gonads have been found in turtles
exposed to PCBs.
Changes in climate, including higher temperatures,
lower soil moisture, longer dry seasons, and more
variability in rainfall, can influence amphibian and
reptile populations. These climate changes can mean
fewer insects available as prey for some species,
changes in activity patterns, depressed immune systems
due to stress, and shorter breeding seasons because
ponds hold less water for shorter periods.
Warmer temperatures impact crocodiles, alligators,
and some turtles whose sex ratios are determined by
nest temperatures during incubation.
High UV radiation resulting from a thinner ozone layer
can cause a variety of problems in amphibians—
DNA mutations, suppressed immune systems, and developmental
problems or death in embryos.
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
Collared lizard (Crotaphytus collaris)
Amphibians and Reptiles

Habitat management considerations
Managing habitat for amphibians and reptiles can
take many forms, depending on the landowner’s geographical
location, land use activities, habitat type,
and the target species. Before beginning, landowners
should compile a list of amphibians and reptiles
that occur on their properties and their locations to
determine the priority areas for habitat management.
Landowners are encouraged to consult with local natural
resource professionals and/or herpetologists to
design the best possible habitat management plan for
amphibians and reptiles in their region. Some actions
that can be taken are:
• Provide logs, rocks, and brush piles around wetland
areas and in upland areas.
• Keep a vegetated buffer (minimum 50 feet)
around wetlands and streams.
• Provide upland habitat adjacent to wetland
areas (500 feet or wider if possible).
• Ensure that vegetation is not too dense for herp
movement by promoting a variety of native sedges,
forbs, and warm- and cool-season grasses.
• Avoid introducing nonnative plants or animals,
and control any that have already been introduced.
• Avoid introducing fish to breeding areas.
• Avoid altering natural water levels in wetlands,
rivers, and streams, particularly from the time
herps migrate to overwintering sites through to
spring emergence.
• Maintain shallow water areas or pools for breeding
amphibians.
• Plan any prescribed burning activity to
avoid times when amphibians and reptiles
are particularly active (breeding migrations,
dispersal from hibernacula).
• Avoid using pesticides within 100 yards of
streams or wetlands.
• Limit pesticide use to brands that rapidly decompose
after application.
• Rotate livestock to prevent excessive grazing.
• Keep livestock out of wetlands and riparian
areas.
• Avoid off-road vehicle use.
• Avoid building roads in sensitive areas.
• Build road crossings to help amphibians and
reptiles cross roads safely.
• Avoid fragmenting habitats.
For more information
Partners in Amphibian and Reptile Conservation
(PARC) is an inclusive partnership dedicated to the
conservation of amphibians and reptiles and their
habitats. PARC’s Web site, www.parcplace.org, is an
excellent resource for information on amphibians and
reptiles, their habitat requirements, and habitat management
considerations. In particular, PARC is developing
Amphibian and Reptile Habitat Management
Guidebooks for five geographical regions across the
United States that can be useful to landowners. These
guidebooks can be downloaded from PARC’s Web
site.
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
Eastern box turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina)
Amphibians and Reptiles
References
Online sources
AmphibiaWeb: Information on amphibian biology
and conservation. 2005. Overview of amphibian
diseases. http://elib.cs.berkeley.edu/aw/declines/
diseases.html [Accessed 22 June 2005].
The Center for Reptile and Amphibian Conservation
and Management. n.d. http://Herps.ipfw.edu/
[Accessed 17 January 2005].
Natural Resources Conservation Service, Iowa.
2005. Restoring, managing habitat for reptiles,
amphibians. http://www.ia.nrcs.usda.gov/news/
brochures/ReptilesAmphibians.html [Accessed
11 August 2005].
PARC – Partners in Amphibian and Reptile
Conservation. 2004. http://www.parcplace.org/
index.html [Accessed 20 January 2005].
U.S. Geological Survey. 2003. Farm ponds as critical
habitats for native amphibians. http://www.
umesc.usgs.gov/terrestrial/amphibians/
mknutson_5003869.html [Accessed 17 January
2005].
Printed sources
Capula, M. 1989. Guide to reptiles and amphibians of
the world. Simon & Schuster Inc., New York, NY.
Crump, M. 2002. Amphibians, reptiles, and their conservation.
Linnet Books, North Haven, CT.
Conant, R., and J.T. Collins. 1991. A field guide to reptiles
and amphibians of Eastern and Central
North America. Houghton Mifflin Company,
New York, NY.
Daszak, P., L. Berger, A.A. Cunningham, A.D. Hyatt,
D.E. Green, and R. Speare. 1999. Emerging infectious
diseases and amphibian population
declines. Emerging Infectious Diseases
5:735–748.
Gibbons, J.W., D.E. Scott, T.J. Ryan, K.A. Buhlmann,
T.D. Tuberville, B.S. Metts, J.L. Greene, T.M.
Mills, Y. Leiden, S. Poppy, and C.T. Winne. 2000.
Reptiles in decline: the global decline of reptiles,
déjà vu amphibians. BioScience 50:653–666.
Harding, J.H. 1997. Amphibians and reptiles of the
Great Lakes Region. University of Michigan
Press, Ann Arbor, MI.
Jochimsen, D.M., C.R. Peterson, K.M. Andrews, and J.
W. Gibbons. 2004. A literature review of the effects
of roads on amphibians and reptiles and
the measures used to minimize those effects.
Idaho Fish and Game Department and USDA
Forest Service.
Johnson, T.R. 1987. The amphibians and reptiles of
Missouri. Missouri Department of Conservation,
Jefferson City, MO.
Kenney, L.P., and M.R. Burne. 2000. A field guide to
the animals of vernal pools. Massachusetts
Division of Fisheries and Wildlife, Westborough,
MA, USA and Vernal Pool Association, Reading,
MA.
Kingsbury, B., and J. Gibson. 2002. Habitat management
guidelines for amphibians and reptiles of
the Midwest. Partners in Amphibian and Reptile
Conservation, Midwest Working Group, Fort
Wayne, IN.
Knutson, M.G., W.B. Richardson, D.M. Reineke, B.R.
Gray, J.R. Parmelee, and S.E. Weick. 2004.
Agricultural ponds support amphibian populations.
Ecological Applications 14:669-684.
Lehtinen, R.M., S.M. Galatowitch, and J.R. Tester.
1999. Consequences of habitat loss and fragmentation
for wetland amphibian assemblages.
Wetlands 19:1-12.
Maxell, B.A. 2000. Management of Montana’s amphibians:
a review of factors that may present a risk
to population viability and accounts on the identification,
distribution, taxonomy, habitat use,
natural history, and the status and conservation
of individual species. Report to USFS Region 1,
Order Number 43–0343–0–0224. Wildlife Biology
Program, University of Montana, Missoula, MT.
Petranka, J.W. 1998. Salamanders of the United States
and Canada. Smithsonian Institution Press,
Washington, DC.
Pough, F.H., R.M. Andrews, J.E. Cadle, M.L. Crump,
A.H. Savitzky, K.D. Wells. 2004. Herpetology.
Pearson Prentice Hall, Upper Saddle River, NJ.
Schneider, R.L., M.E. Krasny, S.J. Morreale. 2001.
Hands-on herpetology: exploring ecology
and conservation. National Science Teachers
Association Press, Arlington, VA.
Amphibians and Reptiles
Semlitsch, R.D., and J.R. Bodie. 2003. Biological criteria
for buffer zones around wetlands and
riparian habitats for amphibians and reptiles.
Conservation Biology 17:1219-1228.
Shea, G. 2002. Reptiles & amphibians. Fog City Press,
San Francisco, CA.
Amphibians and Reptiles
Primary authors: Raissa Marks, Wildlife Habitat Council. Drafts reviewed by: Rob Pauline, Wildlife Habitat
Council; Charlie Rewa, Natural Resources Conservation Service; Jennifer Anderson-Cruz, Natural
Resources Conservation Service; Linda Weir, North American Amphibian Monitoring Program; Bob
Herrington, Georgia Southwestern State University; Christopher Jenkins, Idaho State University; Charles
Peterson, Idaho State University; and Randy Babb, Arizona Game and Fish Department.
www.nrcs.usda.gov
Wildlife Habitat Council
8737 Colesville Road, Suite 800
Silver Spring, MD 20910
(301) 588-8994
The mission of the Wildlife Habitat Council
is to increase the amount of quality wildlife
habitat on corporate, private, and public land.
WHC engages corporations, public agencies,
and private, nonprofit organizations on a
voluntary basis as one team for the recovery,
development, and preservation of wildlife
habitat worldwide.
www.wildlifehc.org
© 1988 WHC
WILDLIFE HABITAT COUNCILSM
The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities on the
basis of race, color, national origin, age, disability, and where applicable, sex, marital status, familial status, parental
status, religion, sexual orientation, genetic information, political beliefs, reprisal, or because all or a part
of an individual’s income is derived from any public assistance program. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all
programs.) Persons with disabilities who require alternative means for communication of program information
(Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact USDA’s TARGET Center at (202) 720–2600 (voice and
TDD). To file a complaint of discrimination, write to USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, 1400 Independence
Avenue, SW., Washington, DC 20250–9410, or call (800) 795–3272 (voice) or (202) 720–6382 (TDD). USDA is an
equal opportunity provider and employer.
Natural Resources Conservation
Service
Mailing address:
P.O. Box 2890
Washington, DC 20013
Street address:
14th and Independence Avenue SW
Washington, DC 20250
The Natural Resources Conservation Service
provides leadership in a partnership effort to
help people conserve, maintain, and improve
our natural resources and environment.

Brush Piles 101 : The Humane Society of the United States

Brush Piles 101 : The Humane Society of the United States


wo basic ways to construct a brush pile

Pallet Type (This is more frequently recommended.) Use a pallet of material as a base and then stack tree tops, old Christmas trees, flower stalks, limbs, leaves, and twigs on top to form the pile.
The most common type of pallet brush pile is made by stacking two or three layers of 6-inch-diameter logs at right angles to each other. Logs should be about 6 feet long and should be placed about 10 inches apart within each layer. You can also use several tree stumps or 12-inch rocks as pallets.
Teepee Type
Arrange about eight 6- to 8-foot untrimmed branches in a diagonal teepee fashion, either standing alone or over a tree stump.

Tips for building a better brush pile of either type



  • Isolated piles are less likely to be used. Choose an area with good drainage; near a forest edge, along a stream, or at the edge or back corner of a property; and close to existing food sources and shrubs.
  • Ideal piles are 4 to 8 feet tall and from 10 to 20 feet in diameter.
  • Brush piles are flammable; keep them away from buildings.
  • On larger properties with little natural cover, create three or four brush piles per acre.
  • Where aesthetics are important, plant native vines such as wild grape, honeysuckle, and trumpet creeper as an attractive cover for the brush pile, or plant a border of wildflowers.
  • Rot and decay are a normal process of brush piles. As they rot, they attract more insects, providing additional food for birds. The piles should be inspected yearly, though, to see if the state of decay is such that a new brush pile should be constructed.

Creating a Wild Backyard - Brush Piles - Wild Acres - Wildlife and Heritage Service - Maryland Department of Natural Resources

Creating a Wild Backyard - Brush Piles - Wild Acres - Wildlife and Heritage Service - Maryland Department of Natural Resources:



How to Build a Brush Pile

A finished brush pile should be at least ten to 15 feet wide and 25 feet long. It should be dense enough to protect the animal while still allowing wildlife to easily run inside. However, smaller brush piles can be of benefit to birds, lizards, chipmunks, and other small animals. A brush pile has two parts:
Supporting Base
The base is formed from two layers of logs, evenly spaced, to allow easy access. Within the base, you can also put drainage pipes, or tiles, cinder blocks, or tires with holes cut along the tread. Animals may use these as dens.

  • Build the base of the brush pile over stones, tires, cinder blocks or other durable material to slow the decay of the log base.

  • Place alternate layers of logs at right angles to one another to form the base. These logs should be at least six inches in diameter and spaced six to ten inches apart. The base will look similar to a log cabin.

  • Rot resistant wood like cedar, locust or other hardwoods make the best base. Stay away from treated wood for your base.

  • Pile of Plant Material on Top
    The “brush” part of the pile can be made from a variety of plant parts, including old Christmas trees.

  • Place the small trees, branches, and other brush over the base using enough material to form a tepee or mound-shaped pile about five feet tall.

  • Pile the brush on the base so that the center is very dense, but the edges are loose. This will shelter the animals and still allow them to easily come and go.

  • Replace material as it decays

  • Illustration of How to Build a Brush Pile
    Take note: Though brush piles are tremendously beneficial to wildlife, they can also attract woodchucks, skunks, and snakes, all of which may become household pests. Because of this, it is best to keep brush piles away from your home. Brush piles may also conceal predators, so it is also good to keep them away from bird feeders located on or near the ground. Also be aware of local and community ordinances before creating a brush pile habitat.

    Urban Conservation Brochure | Iowa NRCS

    Urban Conservation Brochure | Iowa NRCS:



    Download the entire book:
    Pages 1-32 Conservation Strategies for Growing Communities (211 MB)

    Download by section:
    Pages 1-3 The Growth of Urban Conservation (9.05 MB)
    Pages 4-6 Regulations and Planning (242 KB)
    Pages 7-8 Erosion Control (2.13 MB)
    Page 9 Compost Blankets (1.93 MB)
    Page 10 Grading Strategies (2.81 MB)
    Page 11 Mulching (2.34 MB)
    Page 12 Rolled Erosion Control Products (2.41 MB)
    Page 13 Vegetative Establishment (1.25 MB)
    Page 14 Sediment Control Practices (1.21 MB)
    Page 15 Compost Filter Berms (397 KB)
    Page 16 Compost Socks (2.07 MB)
    Page 17 Filter Strips (3.36 MB)
    Page 18 GeoRidge (2.18 MB)
    Page 19 Inlet Protection (3.8 MB)
    Page 20 Rock Check Dams (2.06 MB)
    Page 21 Sediment Control Basins (1.89 MB)
    Page 22 Silt Fences (2.36 MB)
    Page 23 Storm Water Management (1.41 MB)
    Page 24 Bioretention Cells (2.45 MB)
    Page 25 Bioswales (2.04 MB)
    Page 26 Infiltration Trenches (3.81 MB)
    Page 27 Native Landscaping (4.26 MB)
    Page 28 Permeable Paving Alternatives (4.03 MB)
    Page 29 Rain Gardens (8.48 MB)
    Page 30 Soil Quality Restoration (1.70 MB)
    Page 31-32 Final Thoughts (1.89 MB)

    Obstacles to success

    http://extension.oregonstate.edu/4hwildlifestewards/pdfs/reptiles.pdf




    AttractingSnakes intoyourBackyard– tips for reptile-friendly landscaping and gardening

    What can I do?



    1. Provide hiding places
    Snakes require shelter from their many predators such as hawks and crows that are
    quick to make a meal of them. Suitable hiding places may consist of rocks or decaying
    logs, brush piles, or patches of dense shrub or herbaceous vegetation.
    One of the simplest ways to provide shelter for snakes is to leave natural coverobjects
    — fallen logs, bark, and rocks — in place. You can also leave areas of
    uncut vegetation in an orchard or in a perennial border. Using hedges to
    divide the property into different areas enhances its appearance and
    provides hiding places and travel corridors for snakes and other small
    wildlife.
    You can also construct special structures for snakes. These can range
    from simple rock and brush piles to elaborate rock walls. Dry-stack rock
    walls (built without mortar) are particularly suitable, because the crevices and
    cracks between rocks provide abundant and varied hiding places for snakes and
    lizards. If you decide to start with rock or brush piles, make sure that the piles are
    stable and relatively large (about one metre wide at the base). Careful placement of
    these structures is also important: locate them adjacent to borders, hedges, or a
    compost heap.



    2. Provide warm sites
    Snakes and lizards derive most of their body heat from the environment and therefore
    require suitable warm “sunning” areas. Raising the body temperature helps these
    reptiles digest their food and assimilate energy. The availability of warm sites is
    particularly important for females when they are producing eggs or young. In contrast
    to garter snakes that give birth to live young, the Sharp-tailed Snake
    lays eggs.
    If you are fortunate enough to have a rocky hillside or a
    knoll that receives sun for at least a part of the day, make
    sure to protect it and restrict foot-traffic in that area.
    Prevent erosion by restricting activities immediately
    upslope, as soil and silt can fill the cracks between
    rocks. Keeping such slopes free of Scotch Broom and
    other invasive plants that will shade them is also
    beneficial. Adding rocks of varying sizes to the base of an
    exposed hillside is one way to improve habitat for snakes, and
    placing new rock walls and rock piles on south-facing slopes or where
    they receive sun is another.
    In the garden, snakes may take advantage of warm conditions under black plastic
    sheets that are used to control weeds on vegetable or flowerbeds. You can provide
    warm sites just for snakes by placing sheets of tin or black asphalt roofing in sunny
    locations — about 60 x 60 centimetres (2 x 2 feet) sheets work well. These covers are
    more durable than plastic sheets and last for many years. If these covers are used,
    however, take special care to place them in low-traffic locations to avoid injury to the
    animals sheltering underneath.



    3. Provide a pesticide-free environment
    Chemical pesticides and herbicides can harm wildlife either directly or by
    contaminating their food supply. Chemical slug bait containing metaldehyde is
    Did you know?
    Adding hiding places is
    an excellent way to
    attract snakes.
    South-facing rocky slopes
    provide egg-laying and
    nursery sites for the Sharptailed
    Snake.
    Did you know?
    hazardous not only to wildlife but also to children and family pets. Whenever
    possible, use alternative methods to chemical pesticides to control garden pests
    Encouraging snakes to inhabit your garden is a natural way to control slugs. In
    particular, the Sharp-tailed Snake and the Northwestern Garter Snake are voracious
    feeders on slugs. Depending on the magnitude of your slug problem, you might
    need to use a combination of control measures. Effective measures include trapping,
    hand-picking, and use of barriers. Frequent cultivation of the soil and using a
    drip-irrigation rather than a sprinkler system will also help reduce the slug population
    in your garden.



    4. Tread gently
    You can reduce the accidental death of snakes, lizards, and other small
    animals by taking a few simple precautions. When moving rocks or
    repairing old rock walls, be aware that these cover objects may have
    become home to animals — take special care to avoid accidentally
    crushing animals that might be sheltering there. When mowing tall
    grass, first walk through or stir the area, so that any concealed snakes
    have a chance to move out of harm’s way. Similarly, when using a
    weed-eater, first stir the area with a stick to alert snakes to your
    presence — they will quickly slither away.



    5. Encourage and protect native vegetation and habitats
    When creating wildlife habitat, imitate patterns found in nature. Replace straight
    lines with irregular patterns and avoid large monocultures of single plants. Large
    “tidied up” areas and weed-free gardens provide poor habitat for snakes and other
    small wildlife. Sometimes natural patterns may initially look unstructured, but you
    will soon grow accustomed to viewing the landscape with snakes and other wild
    creatures in mind.
    Instead of imported ornamentals, use native shrubs and herbs. In the Gulf
    Islands, plants that occur in habitats occupied by the Sharp-tailed Snake include
    salal, ocean spray, Nootka rose, and western trumpet honeysuckle. Because native
    plants are adapted to local conditions, they usually require less maintenance and
    attention than fancy imports. Several local nurseries provide a wide selection of
    native plants and can help get you started.
    One of the best ways to protect wildlife habitat is to leave some of your property
    in its natural state. Even small patches of natural areas can be effective as habitat
    both for small animals such as reptiles and for native plants. Conservation covenants
    provide a way for landowners to ensure long-term protection of special habitats on
    their properties. Many local conservation organizations and land trusts provide
    assistance with setting up such stewardship agreements. Tax credits or other
    incentives are often available for landowners that engage in stewardship agreements
    or donate land for conservation.
    6. Enhance access to habitats
    Natural landscapes are a mosaic of interconnected habitats, providing a variety of
    conditions for wildlife. Reduce the distance between habitat patches for easy access
    to animals. Snakes are more likely to use the structures you have provided, such as
    rock walls or brush piles, if they are not isolated in the middle of large open areas.
    Efforts to maintain and restore wildlife habitat on your property reduce
    fragmentation of the landscape and create habitat networks in your area. What you
    do on your property, however small, can make a difference.

    Attracting reptiles into your garden | Suffolk Wildlife Trust

    Attracting reptiles into your garden | Suffolk Wildlife Trust: Unless you have a very large garden with plenty of wildlife areas, it is actually quite unlikely that snakes will be resident. It is more probable that any snakes you see (and the many more you don’t) are visiting in the course of their normal movements through wildlife corridors, especially if you live near areas containing heath and rough grassland, or other preferred habitats such as derelict urban areas, allotments, ponds, rivers , wetlands, or muck heaps on farms and stables.