Snakes: Maine IF&W

Snakes: Maine IF&W:

Tips for Attracting Snakes

In addition to the persecution snakes experience routinely at human hands, they have suffered greatly from our activities that alter habitat. Snakes fare poorly when we break up natural lands for urban and suburban development and isolate animals that cannot easily move across inhospitable terrain. To provide safe spaces on your property for snakes:

Figure 7: Drawing Credit - Jenifer Rees

• Protect hibernation sites and other retreat areas such as rock piles and downed woody debris.
• Mow at a slow speed and be ready to step on the clutch or brake. Leave grass un-mowed in places that adjoin a wet area, sunny forest edge, or any other suspected snake habitat. If the grass has to be cut, survey the area and move or "herd" snakes to move to a safe location prior to mowing. Set the mower blades as high as possible, or use a weed-whacker and leave grass six inches or higher.
• Build a fish-free pond. Many snakes feed on tadpoles, adult frogs and invertebrates found in and around ponds. Because fish compete with snakes for amphibians, making the pond fish-free will provide most snakes with the best opportunity for feeding. (See "Additional Resources" for more information about landscaping for wildlife.)
• Build or maintain a rock wall or a rock pile with crevices for snakes to escape from severe weather and predators, to find food and to give birth (Fig. 7 ).

Figure 8: Drawing Credit - Jenifer Rees

A rock wall or pile of rocks provides snakes protection. (Fig. 7)

• Create a "snake board" by laying a sheet of plywood or corrugated sheet metal on the ground in a sunny location, propping it up on three sides with three-inch rocks, lengths of plastic pipe, or similar objects (Fig. 8). In cool areas, paint the top black or cover it with dark asphalt shingles to increase the temperature below the board.

Snakes will seek out the shelter of a "snake board" in areas where a similar type of shelter is lacking. (Fig. 8)

• Place habitat-enhancement features, such as snake boards and rock piles, away from driveways or heavily traveled roads.
• Discourage cats from using your yard. Cats are effective hunters and can severely decrease the snake population.

In addition, you can encourage your friends and neighbors to protect snakes too, especially on property that adjoins yours. More generally, you can support public acquisition of greenbelts, remnant forests, and other wild areas in your community and join a local conservation organization, land trust or habitat enhancement project.

Rock Piles

http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/9093EB40-A81E-4094-BAA9-C376435A8D06/0/Mit_HabitatStructure.pdf

1. Intent: To mimic accumulations as might occur in rocky areas along streams,
outcrops, and talus fields. The rocks absorb daytime heat and slowly release it
during the cooler night.
2. Target species: The heated rocks provide a relatively stable thermal source and
will attract ectothermic reptiles for nesting and foraging. Rock piles with sufficient
mass may serve as reptile overwintering sites. Small mammals, particularly
rodents, will forage, nest, and receive some protection from predators in rock
piles. Rodents in turn may also serve as a food source for predatory species
such as weasels, mink, snakes, and coyotes.
3. Location: Rock piles should be placed in upland sites with little or no chance of
being inundated by water. If there are slopes in the site it may be beneficial to
bury half the pile into them, particularly south facing slopes.
4. Quantity: It is recommended to have at least five rock piles per acre.
5. Construction: Rocks should be cleaned and sized from two inch diameter to two
man rock (approximately two square feet) with some jagged edges. Jagged
edges are used by molting reptiles and provide secure footing for small
mammals. It is important to maintain a variety of interstitial spaces not exceeding
six inches. The piles should be at least five feet diameter and four feet tall.
Partially bury piles below the ground surface in upland areas. A perch log can be
added to expand habitat opportunities for birds. If large rocks are encountered
on site they may be grouped and partially buried to create burrows
(approximately one square foot or greater) for larger species such as coyotes.

Brush Piles Help Wildlife in Your Ecosystem Garden

Brush Piles Help Wildlife in Your Ecosystem Garden:

And the best part is, brush piles are very easy to build, and they keep a lot of yard waste out of landfills:

• Start with the largest branches and logs and loosely stack them log cabin style.
• Do not use pressure treated lumber, creosoted railroad ties, tires, or lead-painted lumber as these materials contain toxic chemicals which leech into the soil and pollute our waterways.
• Rocks and stones can also be used in this base section to provide additional hiding spaces for wildlife.
• Cover the top of this base with smaller branches until you have a tall pile that resembles an igloo.
• The pile will shrink every year as the wood decomposes and you can just keep adding new materials to the top.
• Plant native vines such as Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), Trumpet Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), or American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) around the base to provide more shelter and to hide the pile. Do NOT plant Oriental Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) because it is extremely invasive and difficult to eradicate.
• Border the pile with locally native wildflowers, which provide nectar for native pollinators.
• Or screen the pile with fruiting native shrubs which provide much needed food for wildlife, especially migrating birds.

Building a Frog-Friendly Pond

Building a Frog-Friendly Pond:

Here are some general tips to help you build a frog-friendly pond:

• Easy Access to the Water. A pond with sloped sides is necessary to allow the frogs to easily get in and out of the pond. Using a flexible pond liner to build a frog pond that gradually slopes from shallow to deep is best. A pre-formed plastic liner can be used but you must place rocks or other items in the water in such a was as to make a ramp for the frogs to get in and out. The pond does not have to be overly large, though.
• Skip the Aeration, Filtration and Water Falls. Frogs like quiet, still water.
• No Fish. Fish are natural predators of frogs, especially eggs and tadpoles.
• Add Plants In and Around the Pond. A variety of water plants such as water lilies help to provide cover, shade and a more natural environment. Likewise, provide plants around the pond for shelter and shade (hostas, ferns, wildflowers, etc). In addition, let the grass grow longer around the pond for extra cover. The plants in and around the pond will attract insects and other organisms that frogs feed on. native plants are best -- check with your garden center for advice.
• Don't Keep it Too Clean. Remember most natural ponds are not sparkling clean. Organic matter in the water helps create natural conditions and feeds the natural prey for the frogs. Algae in the pond also nourishes tadpoles.
• Provide Extra Shelter. Place a couple of clay plant pots, on their side and partly buried, to provide extra shelter and shade. Remember frogs like it damp and cool, and also need places to hide from predators.
• Minimize Predators. If you have dogs and cats, try to limit their access to the pond area. You may want to put a wire fence around the pond area to help keep predators away.
• Keep it Chemical Free. Frogs are very sensitive to pollutants and you do not want to use garden chemicals in your yard that might ultimately hurt the frogs.

Amphibians & Reptiles in West Virginia Yards

http://www.wvdnr.gov/wildlife/pdffiles/wyherps.pdf



Remember that small terrestrial animals like these do not move
about on the larger landscape as readily as birds, butterflies, bats and larger mammals. So
providing habitat will not guarantee their presence. There MUST be populations of reptiles
and amphibians in the vicinity, e.g. in nearby woodlands, streams, or pools prior to providing
habitat for them. It is best to find out what is already in your area, and target those
species. Also keep in mind that a neat and tidy yard, devoid of plant litter and other debris,
is not the best environment for ground dwelling animals like reptiles and amphibians.
Short, cropped lawns and other organized landscaping with no hiding places will not attract
these types of animals in abundance. Hiding places are key for reptiles, and hiding places
with moisture or standing water are key for amphibians. Imagine that you are small and
are looking for places to hide!

Natural explorer :: Creating Reptile/Amphibian Hibernacula & Refuges

Natural explorer :: Creating Reptile/Amphibian Hibernacula & Refuges: In creating ’five-star’ hibernacula there are a number of factors to consider.

Materials: Wood, tree roots, rubble, compost, mulch etc, can all be used.
Design: Mix up these material in a natural way, avoid being too tidy. Have nooks and crannies and places where material will come through any cover.
Cover: Put turfs of suitable vegetation on top (ideally from the location since it will contain invertebrates) - a natural grass and bramble mix, a ’wilderness turf’ being ideal.
Planting or relocating suitable scrub on the north side of the hibernacula also provides extra cover and, crucially, shade.�
Location: The best sites get both sun and shade, often in ’marginal’ habitats between open locations and more overgrown areas.
If you do remove soil and turfs from the location�that is going to�be placed back on top,�store it on tarpaulin to minimise the impact on�surrounding�vegetation.
Loosen up any surrounding areas that were compacted during the work Have the right long term management plan.

Froglife

Froglife: ‘Refuges’ are flat objects placed on the ground in a sunny spot – they absorb warmth from the sun and also provide cover from predators, making them perfect places for reptiles.

Sheets of corrugated tin or roofing felt are ideal but slate roof tiles are less obtrusive in smaller or more traditional gardens. By occasionally lifting these refuges you may get a chance to see some of our more elusive species.