Brush Piles Help Wildlife in Your Ecosystem Garden

Brush Piles Help Wildlife in Your Ecosystem Garden:

And the best part is, brush piles are very easy to build, and they keep a lot of yard waste out of landfills:

• Start with the largest branches and logs and loosely stack them log cabin style.
• Do not use pressure treated lumber, creosoted railroad ties, tires, or lead-painted lumber as these materials contain toxic chemicals which leech into the soil and pollute our waterways.
• Rocks and stones can also be used in this base section to provide additional hiding spaces for wildlife.
• Cover the top of this base with smaller branches until you have a tall pile that resembles an igloo.
• The pile will shrink every year as the wood decomposes and you can just keep adding new materials to the top.
• Plant native vines such as Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), Trumpet Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), or American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) around the base to provide more shelter and to hide the pile. Do NOT plant Oriental Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) because it is extremely invasive and difficult to eradicate.
• Border the pile with locally native wildflowers, which provide nectar for native pollinators.
• Or screen the pile with fruiting native shrubs which provide much needed food for wildlife, especially migrating birds.

Building a Frog-Friendly Pond

Building a Frog-Friendly Pond:

Here are some general tips to help you build a frog-friendly pond:

• Easy Access to the Water. A pond with sloped sides is necessary to allow the frogs to easily get in and out of the pond. Using a flexible pond liner to build a frog pond that gradually slopes from shallow to deep is best. A pre-formed plastic liner can be used but you must place rocks or other items in the water in such a was as to make a ramp for the frogs to get in and out. The pond does not have to be overly large, though.
• Skip the Aeration, Filtration and Water Falls. Frogs like quiet, still water.
• No Fish. Fish are natural predators of frogs, especially eggs and tadpoles.
• Add Plants In and Around the Pond. A variety of water plants such as water lilies help to provide cover, shade and a more natural environment. Likewise, provide plants around the pond for shelter and shade (hostas, ferns, wildflowers, etc). In addition, let the grass grow longer around the pond for extra cover. The plants in and around the pond will attract insects and other organisms that frogs feed on. native plants are best -- check with your garden center for advice.
• Don't Keep it Too Clean. Remember most natural ponds are not sparkling clean. Organic matter in the water helps create natural conditions and feeds the natural prey for the frogs. Algae in the pond also nourishes tadpoles.
• Provide Extra Shelter. Place a couple of clay plant pots, on their side and partly buried, to provide extra shelter and shade. Remember frogs like it damp and cool, and also need places to hide from predators.
• Minimize Predators. If you have dogs and cats, try to limit their access to the pond area. You may want to put a wire fence around the pond area to help keep predators away.
• Keep it Chemical Free. Frogs are very sensitive to pollutants and you do not want to use garden chemicals in your yard that might ultimately hurt the frogs.

Amphibians & Reptiles in West Virginia Yards

http://www.wvdnr.gov/wildlife/pdffiles/wyherps.pdf



Remember that small terrestrial animals like these do not move
about on the larger landscape as readily as birds, butterflies, bats and larger mammals. So
providing habitat will not guarantee their presence. There MUST be populations of reptiles
and amphibians in the vicinity, e.g. in nearby woodlands, streams, or pools prior to providing
habitat for them. It is best to find out what is already in your area, and target those
species. Also keep in mind that a neat and tidy yard, devoid of plant litter and other debris,
is not the best environment for ground dwelling animals like reptiles and amphibians.
Short, cropped lawns and other organized landscaping with no hiding places will not attract
these types of animals in abundance. Hiding places are key for reptiles, and hiding places
with moisture or standing water are key for amphibians. Imagine that you are small and
are looking for places to hide!

Natural explorer :: Creating Reptile/Amphibian Hibernacula & Refuges

Natural explorer :: Creating Reptile/Amphibian Hibernacula & Refuges: In creating ’five-star’ hibernacula there are a number of factors to consider.

Materials: Wood, tree roots, rubble, compost, mulch etc, can all be used.
Design: Mix up these material in a natural way, avoid being too tidy. Have nooks and crannies and places where material will come through any cover.
Cover: Put turfs of suitable vegetation on top (ideally from the location since it will contain invertebrates) - a natural grass and bramble mix, a ’wilderness turf’ being ideal.
Planting or relocating suitable scrub on the north side of the hibernacula also provides extra cover and, crucially, shade.�
Location: The best sites get both sun and shade, often in ’marginal’ habitats between open locations and more overgrown areas.
If you do remove soil and turfs from the location�that is going to�be placed back on top,�store it on tarpaulin to minimise the impact on�surrounding�vegetation.
Loosen up any surrounding areas that were compacted during the work Have the right long term management plan.

Froglife

Froglife: ‘Refuges’ are flat objects placed on the ground in a sunny spot – they absorb warmth from the sun and also provide cover from predators, making them perfect places for reptiles.

Sheets of corrugated tin or roofing felt are ideal but slate roof tiles are less obtrusive in smaller or more traditional gardens. By occasionally lifting these refuges you may get a chance to see some of our more elusive species.

Froglife

Froglife: A sunny, south-facing compost heap makes an excellent reptile habitat. Slow-worms, in particular, are often found buried within them, feeding on the numerous slugs and ants. Frogs, toads and newts may also forage or hibernate in a compost heap.

Pre-formed compost bins can be less accessible but if there are holes or gaps then they may also be used. You can construct your own compost heap out of old pallets – these will provide plenty of access points for wildlife. If you leave piles of grass or leaves around the garden, these will also attract amphibians and reptiles.

Cover your compost heap or grass pile with an old carpet or tarpaulin for extra protection and basking opportunities. Checking under this cover can be a great way to get a closer look at the creatures living in your garden.

Froglife

Froglife: Ponds don’t need to be large to attract wildlife – frogs and newts may still lay eggs in small water bodies (1m wide or even less). Even if frogs and newts don’t choose to spawn in your tub pond it will certainly help them to keep cool and moist in the summer and many insects and other animals will make use of it. All you need is a container such as a large tub or a recycled sink or half-barrel. Sink this into the ground or, with safety in mind, alternatively leave it standing and simply fill with water (preferably rain water) and aquatic plants. If your pond is free-standing, make sure there are plenty of logs, pebbles and plants in and around the pond to provide access for wildlife.